Enclosures

Check that the hutch you are purchasing provides sufficient space and shelter, if a hutch is too small it could restrict your rabbit’s movement. Rabbits should be able to stand fully on their hind limbs and take at least three hops in their enclosure. A hutch should be as large as possible to accommodate active and inquisitive bunnies, with an area to provide protection against weather and a secure sleeping place. Hutches ideally should only serve as an intermittent shelter,your rabbits need a few hours a day of exercise outside of their hutch.

All hutches should be well ventilated.Rabbits are extremely sensitive to the hot summer temperatures we experience in Australia and may die of heat stroke if their hutch is not in a cool, shady position.Enclosures with wire floors may damage their feet - the floor of your rabbit's hutch should be covered with newspaper, with a layer of bedding material like straw, grass, hay or shredded paper for warmth, comfort and to prevent pressure sores on your bunny’s feet.

Enclosures

The first decision when housing a rabbit or guinea pig is whether they should be kept inside or outside. Indoors, rabbits and guinea pigs are safe from predators and diseases spread by wild rabbits, whilst outdoor they can express natural behaviours such as grazing on fresh grass.

When housing rabbits indoors, you may find that rabbits are quite clean animals! Rabbits take well to litter training and can be allowed to free roam indoors with supervision. Ensure that your home is rabbit proofed as they tend to chew on objects including power cords!

Whilst guinea pigs can be litter trained, they do not readily take to litter training as easily as rabbits do and some may never use the tray.

Indoor enclosures should be set up in a temperature-controlled environment (ie not getting too hot or too cold), in a well-ventilated space, and with a cleanable floor covering. Usually, traditional hutches are not used indoors, but instead pens will be used. Rabbits are quite inquisitive animals, so the larger the space, the better. Rabbits should be able to stand on their back legs to stretch but not jump over the edges of the pen. Pens designed for rabbits are usually appropriate for guinea pigs as well, but it is best to check that the bars are appropriately spaced for a smaller animal. Separate food and water dishes should be provided, as well as a litter tray and somewhere for your pet to hide if they would like some privacy.

If housing rabbits and guinea pigs outside, a hutch is usually provided. Hutches should be large enough for the rabbit to stand on their back legs and hop at least four times from end to end (as above, most cages suitable for rabbits are a suitable size for guinea pigs). As with indoor pets, the larger the better to allow for exploration, exercise and enrichment. It is important to ensure that there is a well sheltered portion of the hutch where your rabbit or guinea pig is safe from weather extremes. Please be aware that wire-based flooring can be damaging to a rabbit or guinea pig’s feet (causing wounds and dermatitis) and should be avoided where possible, or the flooring covered with a layer or bedding such as straw, hay, newspaper or shredded paper. If utilising an outdoor hutch, it is recommended that rabbits are given supervised time each day outside of the hutch to properly stretch their legs and exercise. Guinea pigs are a little more sneaky and difficult to contain, so care is recommended (such as wearing a harness) if allowing them to free roam in the backyard.

Outside rabbits are also at risk of infections such as myxamatosis and calicivirus, and it is therefore recommended that rabbit enclosures are mosquito netted to reduce the risk of infection. Vaccination for calicivirus is highly recommended for any rabbits spending time outside.

Small mammal play and well-being

Rabbits are social creatures and enjoy bonds with humans and sometimes other rabbits. They can be quite selective in their choice of rabbit friends, and it will sometimes take a long time to introduce and socialise rabbits together enough that they can be left together unsupervised. If placing rabbits together, it is recommended that they are desexed (see below).

As mentioned earlier, rabbits are very curious and inquisitive animals, and it is important to nourish their curiosity and play. Changing cage furniture arrangements, supplying different greens and supervised time outside of their pen are great ways to mentally enrich rabbits.

Rabbits will often play with a variety of toys, even those that can be made at home, such as cardboard rolls with greens, hay or treats inside, boxes with treats or shredded paper for digging and offering apple branches are great examples. There are also a variety of toys available commercially that rabbits may enjoy. We recommend taking care with toys that are shred-able such as those containing rope as swallowing the fibres could lead to an intestinal blockage.

Guinea pigs are extremely social and predominantly do best if they have a friend (some can become quite distressed on their own) and it is highly recommended to keep guinea pigs in pairs or small groups. Guinea pigs can be quite selective of their friends and may require prolonged introduction periods to get along with new additions.

Diet

The small mammal diet is critically important for their health, as they spend a large portion of their day eating! Diet is related to a number of important health conditions such as dental disease, gut stasis, obesity and arthritis.

As herbivores, rabbits and guinea pigs should only be consuming vegetable matter. The vast majority of their diet should consist of good quality grass hay (approx. 70-80%!), we recommend timothy or oaten hay.

Roughly 10-20% of the diet should be made up of fresh greens such as cabbage, broccoli, Asian greens, watercress, carrot tops, silver beat, celery leaves, mint, parsley and basil.

As little as 5% of the diet should be good quality rabbit pellet mix, this translates to roughly one to two tablespoons per rabbit per day as the maximum! Muesli mixes (such as those with rolled oats, seed and chopped hay) are not a good selection for rabbits. We prefer the OxBow and Origins brands.

The final 5% of the diet should consist of treats such as fruits or grassy treats bought commercially.

Fresh water should always be available and should be refreshed at least daily. Water may be supplied through a dripper bottle or an open bowl, and ideally two sources are ideal.

Care

Rabbits should be monitored closely at home as they may not present overt signs of illness. One of the most crucial things to monitor is that they are eating, drinking and defecating normally. Rabbits and guinea pigs have a different digestive system to humans and need to have a steady flow of food intake in order to digest their food properly. When they stop eating and defecating, this is known as “gut stasis” and may occur for a number of underlying reasons. It is very important to seek veterinary care if you notice your rabbit or guinea pig has not eaten or defecated for more than four hours.

Depending on the species of rabbit or guinea pig, they will likely need brushing frequently. This is both to keep the coat shiny and healthy and prevent overgrooming for the rabbit (rabbits can get hairball obstructions like cats!).

With a large diet of hay, rabbits and guinea pig owners should monitor their eyes as they are prone to getting grass seeds in their coat, and particularly around their eyes.

Rabbits in particular should be monitored for any irritation of the ears, as they are prone to ear infections. Signs to monitor for include scratching the ears, discharge, or tilting their head to the side.

Owners should also monitor the back end of their small mammals, as they can get build up of faeces or urine, leading to scolding or fly strike.

Preventative health

Rabbits and guinea pigs should have annual health check-ups. This helps identify any health issues early and answer any questions about your pets.

Rabbits should be vaccinated against two strains of calicivirus. At Vet 2 Pet we vaccinate rabbits at 8 weeks, then every year.

Desexing can be considered for both rabbits and guinea pigs. Rabbits in particular are prone to cancers of the uterus and mammary tissue, whilst guinea pigs are prone to ovarian cysts. Desexing can also help decrease aggression between animals.